The Libertine

The 2012 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2012) edition.

A competition saw this bar named after the decadent 17th-century poet, the 2nd Earl of Rochester, but here’s nothing debauched about this Libertine, which neatly balances daytime bistro and night-time bar. Tall windows line both aspects, allowing diners in huge booths and intimate tables to gaze out from the modern Victorian interior. Various small plates, including nachos and Vietnamese rice balls, are suited to nibbling and sharing. Mains include beer-battered haddock with fluffy hand-cut chips, but it is the pie range that stands out – the creamy chicken and bacon filling is buried beneath a crispy, buttery crust. With mash and seasonal veg accompaniments, it's all a pleasant reminder of how good traditional home-cooked meals can be – with a tangy, smooth Eton mess a good sharer to finish. The Libertine may be a new player on an old block, but by melding the modern and traditional it has quickly found its stride.

• High point: Traditional pies, just like your granny used to make
• Low point: Can be packed out when there is sport on