The Mulroy

The 2012 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2012) edition.

The Battle of Mulroy between the MacDonalds and the Mackintoshes took place in 1688. The Edinburgh restaurant which takes its name from this Highlands’ clan feud is a much more peaceful affair, thanks in large part to the charmingly impeccable manners of Patron Clemens Hoss-d’Estenfeld MacDonald and the calm, traditional interior which creates a country house ambience in the city centre. Chef Damien Rolain’s finds expression for his classic French-style fine dining, with Port Seton providing baby langoustine for a salad with green apple, while the west’s Loch Creran supplies the oyster tartare to go with it. Truffle oil appears in an amuse-bouche of creamed leek and potato soup, then again with smoked and roasted pigeon breast. A finishing touch of hazelnuts is but one example of Rolain’s attention to detail and stunning presentation. For mains, fish is prominent while neck fillet of Borders lamb is served rare alongside a giant meatball of braised shoulder minced with cabbage. Fruit inspires the desserts, with sharp gooseberry sorbet and dark chocolate pavé creating a new classic pairing.

• High point: Quirky but intriguing selection of the patron's personally chosen wines
• Low point: Tricky stairs down to basement level