La Famiglia

The 2012 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2012) edition.

Upon entering La Famiglia you encounter a truly inviting atmosphere – often attempted elsewhere, rarely achieved. The smart interior is intimate but nicely proportioned, unlikely to ever make for a cramped dining experience, particularly with conscientious staff effortlessly buzzing around, ensuring all is well. Stylish photographs dotted around depict the family life of young chef-proprietor Nico Simeone, here in his first venture having spent time impressing in other's top-end kitchens. Seafood of a particularly high standard is the highlight and is clearly the chef's speciality and passion. Scallops and calamari are wonderfully presented, balancing strong, fresh flavours against creamy butternut purée. Prawn tagliatelle is buttery yet matched beautifully with zesty citrus and large, juicy prawns in a deliciously rich sauce. Tender chicken wings are deboned, highlighting a recurring attention to detail, while hake wrapped in salty Parma ham is perfectly cooked, and an intriguing pistachio crème brûlée dessert comes with a cute, delicately flavoured mini milkshake accompaniment. It may be in suburbia, but the high quality ingredients, consistently creative preparation and faultless presentation, matched by a genuine passion for food and service, make this a hugely rewarding experience and a newcomer with a bright future.

• High point: Superbly cooked and presented seafood
• Low point: Little bit off the beaten track - but worth every single step