Smoak

The 2012 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2012) edition.

Smoak specialises in hot sandwiches of the very meaty kind with a strong Tex-Mex slant in the preparation and flavours. The brisket of beef is given a spicy Texan rub including mustard, smoked paprika and chillies, then slow-roasted for hours to melting delight, served up in a ciabatta roll with a tangy red pepper mojo. The pork shoulder is a winner too, with robust herbs and garlic in an Italian porchetta style, with perfect crackling and home-made apple sauce. There are daily soups and standard sandwiches too – but it’s hard to see past the specialities, given the odd tasty twist such as brisket and haggis when Scotland are playing football. Watch out for the Smoak van at festivals etc, and the planned Man v Food-style events.

• High point: Brisket that sticks in the mind …
• Low point: … and the teeth