Kanpai

The 2012 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2012) edition.

Designed by Edinburgh based interior designers Four-by-Two, newcomer Kanpai is Sushiya’s elegant, clean lined, grey toned, fine dining, grown up sister. It’s all natural wood, shiny black pendant lights and soft music. Delicately presented dishes are prepared at the long bar, which takes centre stage in the space; it’s also possible to eat there and watch the chefs at work. The menu is quite small and divided into sushi, sashimi, tempura and grilled dishes. A selection of fresh, sweet sashimi atop a huge bowl filled with ice, grilled salmon nigiri, seared and gently warm, crunchy soft shell crab tempura and grilled, sticky aubergine with a sweet miso sauce, makes for a beautiful and satisfying feast. However while flawless in many respects, Kanpai lacks the warm atmosphere of simpler sushi bars and with its stylish private dining room and intimate corners, feels more suited for business meetings and client entertaining than social dining. It may be that it is yet to grow into itself - it’s certainly worth returning to find out.

• High point: The beautifully designed bar
• Low point: Very expensive wines