Tanjore

The 2012 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2012) edition.

Relative newcomer Tanjore brings a wealth of south Indian cuisine to its Newington locale, wrapped up in a friendly and relaxed café setting. Owner and head chef Boon Ganeshram switches between open kitchen and compact dining area, describing tapas lunch options and à la carte offerings, which all come with a discount early evening. The menu covers familiar thali and Hyderabadi biryani mains together with a number of less familiar dishes (often vegetarian) that warrant investigation. Fluffy layered bread parotta supports well spiced and deep flavoured chicken karaikudi curry, while traditional lentil dumpling starters massala vadai blend texture and heat with a mint chutney boost. Available in family-sized four-foot lengths, savoury crêpe mysore massala dosa arrives with a trio of chutneys, lentil broth sambar and a satisfyingly spicy massala potato stuffing. No charge BYOB proves popular, and there are dessert dosas teamed with banana, ice cream and pistachio nuts alongside delicately spiced chai tea. While the décor may lack finesse and the lighting is dialled up to the max, ultimately it’s the range and quality of southern Indian fare that shines through.

• High point: Enjoyable south Indian dishes delivered in informal café surroundings
• Low point: Highly illuminated dining area