Barolo Grill

The 2012 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2012) edition.

Occupying the former L'Ariosto premises, this plush member of the Di Maggio’s stable strikes you on entering with its stylish and intimate ambience. Subtly lit leather-seated booths and smaller tables are framed by the flames of the grill in the background, creating a classy impression while attentive, unobtrusive staff punctuate their conversation with subtle Italian phrases in a way that charms. To start, sausage and fennel filo parcels are deliciously juicy and crisp, though prawns in limoncello dressing are a little lacking in liqueur. Rich crab and pancetta carbonara may overpower timid tastebuds but the salt of the combination finds the right balance, while the seafood spaghetti is a delight – generously laden with clams, scallops and more, with a creamy Gavi white wine sauce that melts in the mouth. Tiramisù is an unadventurous but satisfying dessert, and the complimentary limoncello an indulgent digestif. The excellent house prosecco is recommended – its crisp citrus flavours make a fine appetizer. Barolo is an appealing choice for a meal in the centre or a special occasion as the quality of the food, service and atmosphere represents good value.

• High point: Scottish seafood spaghetti is a knockout
• Low point: Music doesn't do the elegant surroundings justice