Limelight Bar and Grill

The 2012 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2012) edition.

Situated in the Hotel Indigo, Limelight is a smart, bright venue, well appointed with spacious booths and an upmarket feel. Service is good, if a little impersonal, probably due to the fact that the hotel, although styled like an independent boutique hotel, is owned by a large international chain. The menu doesn’t hold too many surprises, and has a retro feel, ranging from steaks to fish and chips via caesar salad and classic prawn cocktail. The pig's cheeks are probably the most daring starter and were beautifully tender, interestingly accompanied by spicy morcilla, rather than the ubiquitous Stornoway black pudding. Popular butcher Simon Howie supplies the meat here, and the fillet steak was nicely prepared, dependably tasty, with a rich red wine sauce. To follow, the fondant was inside out, with the chocolate sauce poured over rather than oozing out of the sponge, and so lacked any surprise. This is a stylish hotel restaurant and while the food and cooking is solid enough, it's hard to shake that fact, particularly in deepest officeland where coprorate suits and expense accounts roam freely.

• High point: Stylish dining room
• Low point: Feels like a hotel restaurant