Tropeiro

The 2012 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2012) edition.

To Brazilians, barbecues are a serious business. Not content with a limp sausage cooked on a flimsy foil dish, in Brazil huge haunches of meat are roasted over open flames, then carved directly onto your plate. If you enjoy the meat sweats, this is for you. The all-you-can-eat feast starts once diners flip a card from red to green – green for go. A chef regularly circulates the restaurant to carve steaming-hot cuts of meat directly from the barbecue. Cuts include the picanha (a Brazilian cut of sirloin steak), piri piri chicken thighs, garlic beef, pork ribs or Cumberland sausage. A salad bar allows diners to fill up on their five a day, while potatoes, rice and traditional feijoada – a turtle bean stew with pork – are also on offer. The unique take on dining and the delicious smell of barbecued meat snaking around the open, red-bricked room, mean that diners can dine the way Brazilians do – taking their time and going green for as long as they can handle.

• High point: Feisty caipirinhas
• Low point: Some cuts are tough going