The Pelican Café

The 2012 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2012) edition.

Sitting opposite the Kelvingrove Museum and Art Gallery means there is plenty of footfall for the retro-style Pelican. Yet clearly they're intent on matching quantity with quality, for there's a careful attention to detail on their menu, which proudly states the provenance the local, Scottish produce. Inside it's spacious, with wooden booths and tables looking onto an open kitchen; service is friendly and informal. Small plate starters include a tangy caramelised onion and cheddar tart, given a twist with a strong thyme flavour, or a creamy potted crab with shrimps, salad and sourdough. Their juicy, meaty burgers include a few unusual takes (like lamb and chorizo), while a prime chargrilled fillet steak served with fluffy goose-fat chips and a piquant sauce is one of the best in town. A take on the fish supper – coley, sea bass and king prawn in a light and crispy real-ale batter – justifies the higher than usual price. The sticky toffee pudding is insanely generous and may forestall any cultural leanings you had planned, especially if you take advantage of the policy of pricing the wine at £5 over retail cost.

• High point: Admirable nods to food provenance
• Low point: Mobbed at weekends