Elliot's Restaurant

The 2012 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2012) edition.

Competing with hundreds of bars and eateries, it’s a hard-knock life for hotel restaurants in Edinburgh. Elliot’s, part of the Apex chain’s Waterloo Place hotel, does its best to keep guests in and even tempt the locals along with some smart deals, including a good value pre-theatre and a pretty afternoon tea. Once in, the space does not disappoint – muted modern seating and oversized lights contrast beautifully with the building’s Georgian proportions, fireplaces and cornices. The food tries hard to match up. Bouillabaisse is as far from a soupy stew as it can be: a tower of fishcake, mullet and langoustine on a small pool of bisque. Well-flavoured, but trying a bit too hard. Jerusalem artichoke soup is simpler, with sage butter to swirl and brioche to dip. For mains, a hefty wodge of risotto lacks gooiness, but chunks of pumpkin, and almond crumb add interest. Sea bass is just fine, though black potatoes add a wow factor. Desserts are strong, particularly treacle tart with spiced plums. Elliot’s is an enjoyable experience and with a bit more heart could become a real competitor.

• High point: Beautiful setting, friendly service.
• Low point: Uneven food