La Garrigue in the New Town

The 2012 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the 2011 edition.

There is a relaxed confidence about the atmosphere at La Garrigue in the New Town. As with its sister venue in Jeffrey Street, stylish modern timber furnishings and an uncluttered sensibility create a relaxed tone in which to unwind over one of the many unusual aperitifs, be it a saffron gin and tonic, or a Byrrh, citrus scented muscat. The menu achieves that elusive balance between sophistication and homeliness. Moist ballotine of pheasant is accented rather than accompanied by a dab of black pudding and puy lentil salad. But it is the twice baked Roquefort soufflé: golden, tenderly fluffy and delicately flavoured with pear and pomegranate to contrast, that causes battling forks across the table. Any truce between diners may be short-lived given the conversation stopping, heady richness of the braised ox cheeks, on an absorbing bed of creamy olive oil mash, despite grilled rib-eye steak acquitting itself with honour, bathed in garlic butter. But beware using up your calorie count too soon, as an imaginative range of largely unfamiliar French cheese would be churlish to ignore.

• High point: Genuine sense that high French quality pervades
• Low point: More vegetarian options from the former home of L'Artichaut would be appreciated