Bo'Vine Meats and Wines

The 2012 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2012) edition.

As the name would suggest (Bovine is derived from the Latin for ox) this restaurant, part of the Hilton Grosvenor, is all about the meat. This ranges from Perthshire venison, Ayrshire pork or grass-fed Aberdeen Angus steak, the latter charred on outside, blushing in the middle accompanied by a delicious whipped garlic butter. Elsewhere there’s nothing unusual to report – fresh scallops are fat and sweet though accompanying pork is fatty and lacks the crunch of a good pork belly. Luckily some pickled walnuts are inspired and help lift the dish with extra bite. Desserts are mostly disappointing although the milk chocolate ice-cream that accompanies the chocolate and chestnut brownie is creamy and full of flavour. Owing to its West End location, most nights are fairly busy and this gives an energetic atmosphere. Expect dim lighting, beech wood flooring and opulent banquettes for a sophisticated feel.

• High point: Good location on Byres Road
• Low point: Deserts need work