Joseph Pearce’s

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The 2011/12 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2011) edition.

Joseph Pearce’s provides a glimpse of Scandinavian hospitality in the no-man’s land that exists between Broughton Street and Leith. In its transformation from an old Edinburgh pub, the bar’s split-level layout remained the same, but the atmosphere is so far from an old boozer that the place could be used as a model for the combination of bar and casual restaurant. Children’s picture books-cum-menus adorn the tables, while cosy window seats are framed by gingham curtains, giving the feel of a traditional Swedish beer house. With children welcome until 5pm, the atmosphere is more cafe than bar during the day as mums congregate to chat over coffee and biscuits. In the evenings an altogether more adult mood takes over, with drinks named after national treasures such as ‘The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo’ (an espresso martini), or ‘Glenn Hysen’s Lille Gosse’ (with cardamom, elderflower, apple and lemon juice). The concise menu changes seasonally, but recent additions show the chef embracing an Asian influence, with pleasingly squidgy pork buns and a chilli lemongrass-marinated guinea fowl. Swedish classics haven’t disappeared though: their ‘smörgåsbord’ is a tasting plate of meats, cheese and chutney, and the hasselback potatoes, their alternative to chips, are as good as ever with truffle mayonnaise.

• High point: Families can enjoy a brunch out with the help of the play area at the back
• Low point: Hard to find space on a busy night when you haven’t booked