Whighams Wine Cellars

The 2012 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2012) edition.

For almost 30 years, stressed professionals have uncoiled at Whighams. At 6pm on Fridays the shadowy cellar’s nooks are jammed, the restaurant side is heaving and the bar stools are occupied by smart ladies gratefully cradling one of 40 wines by the glass. Come later when it thins out for a chance to enjoy the romantic booths and the extensive wine list. It is a very relaxing spot when it’s quieter, all candles and soft stone walls. The French-dominated wine menu offers no explanations, but staff are happy to recommend and supply tasters and there are many reasonably priced glasses. Food is surprisingly like pub grub – think fisherman’s or steak and ale pie followed by sticky toffee pudding – and details like undercooked fries and minimalist side salads are unsatisfying. Sea bass fillet with a fruity salsa is perfectly done, however, and an all-day £10 deal for two courses is good value.

• High point: Manages to be both stylish and soothing
• Low point: Some of the food fails to live up to its surroundings