The Inn at Lathones

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The 2011/12 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2011) edition.

This unprepossessing looking, white-walled inn is full of surprises. It’s home to Scotland’s smallest music festival, attracting names from the Rolling Stones and 10cc. There are rock star-style luxury suites. The food’s pretty glamorous too. Quite frankly, that’s a little unexpected in such modest surroundings, but this is clearly a well-rehearsed menu - a little overwrought in places, but with sufficient sophisticated twists and local turns for jaded old rockers and young foodies alike. Chef Richard Brackenbury changes his offering thrice a year to follow the turning seasons. A tian of local potted crab with lobster butter, crayfish tails and herb salad is a light contrast to the luxurious foie gras crème brûlée, rich and smooth on toasted brioche with a dab of sauterne jelly. Baked turbot with hand-dived scallops and a mini copper panful of leek and potato crumble is a comforting combo, as is the no-nonsense, mixed game steamed pudding on a slice of Stornoway black pudding. Dessert brings ‘crumbs and cream’, a blackcurrant cheesecake fashionably disassembled into its constituent parts or, more straightforwardly, chocolate fondant with pistachio ice cream.

• High point: Food (and wine list) to impress a rock star.
• Low point: Dining room showing its age.

Listed in The Larder – in the shops now or buy online.

This unassuming, white-walled inn is home to Scotland’s smallest music festival and the main dining room’s food is pretty glamorous too. Chef Richard Brackenbury changes his offering three times a year to follow the seasons. A tian of potted crab with lobster butter, crayfish tails and herb salad is a light contrast to the luxurious foie gras crème brûlée. Baked turbot with hand-dived scallops and leek and potato crumble is a comforting combo, as is the no-nonsense, mixed game steamed pudding on a slice of Stornoway black pudding.