The Seafood Restaurant

The 2012 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the 2011 edition.

These sister restaurants in Fife have some of the best views going: the newer St Andrews branch is an extraordinary glass box perched next to the sea with panoramic views, while the original St Monans restaurant overlooks a pretty East Neuk harbour. Both restaurants, unsurprisingly, place a major emphasis on the fruits of Scotland's waters, and menus may feature Seil Island oysters, Isle of May lobsters, west coast scallops and locally smoked and kiln-roasted salmon. Responding to the rising tide of public concern about the sea’s diminishing harvest, the Seafood Restaurant has put sustainability on the menu. Out have gone vulnerable species or suspect sources, in come clear descriptions of provenance, reassuring even the most ardent environmentalist. This enlightened approach doesn’t dilute the many pleasures of this glass-walled, St Andrews’ seafront landmark. It remains elegant, yet unstuffy, with contemporary cooking that’s assured at every turn. Purely table d'hôte, the compact menu emphasizes the freshly-caught and seasonal.

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This eye-catching, glass-walled landmark sits right beside the Old Course and overlooking the West Sands. Elegant yet unstuffy, with contemporary cooking that’s assured at every turn, chef Craig Millar has put sustainability on the menu with clear descriptions of provenance. Find Skye scallops sweetly paired with a bolognaise-filled cannelloni and parmesan foam, or halibut from Gigha in oriental garb, whilst stone bass from the French Med has a perfectly crisp skin and rests on velvety linguine with mussels and sage.