Jenners

It was a little disappointing when the oldest department store in the UK was bought over by the House of Fraser, but thankfully the 168-year-old shrine to well-heeled shopping hasn't been disturbed by the purchase too much. Quality is the watchword here, making a determined wander among the occasionally warren-like corridors and staircases well worth the effort. Fashions range from the conservative to the hip - designers such as Versace, Diesel and Paul Smith feature - but there's also a well-stocked perfumery and make-up floor, a fabulous toy department, home wares, shoes, underwear, food department and coffee shop. At Christmas, the store's sparkling tree spans two floors and is a tourist destination in its own right.