No 28 Charlotte Square

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No 28 Charlotte Square is the headquarters of the National Trust for Scotland, so it is no surprise that this self-styled coffee house inhabits the ground floor of an elegant Georgian building decked out in heritage paint, wood panelling and plaster frescos. Even when busy the café exudes a benign atmosphere of muted gentility, with table service that is both professional and attentive and a menu offering Scottish staples such as oak smoked salmon, venison sausages and, of course, the ubiquitous scone. A bowl of lentil soup is substantial in size and body, as are the cakes that follow: Victoria sponge stuffed full of fresh cream and a gobstopper of a fruit loaf topped with cream cheese. Other options are a bit of an anti–climax given the prices, with a small portion of Cullen skink tart further diminished by its chewy pastry base and three cheese and vine tomato panini featuring rather too little of the crucial ingredient. There is a decent range of choice for lunch, however, and a proper afternoon tea, while upstairs the drawing room gallery of work by 20th century Scottish painters means you can continue to linger in one of Edinburgh’s finer locations.

• High point: Alert and courteous service
• Low point: Main courses on the expensive side