Black Bo's

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• What are these?

• Average price 2 courses:
   £14.50 (lunch)
   £14.50 (evening meal)
• House wine: £12.95 per bottle

• High point: Great bohemian atmosphere
• Low point: Creative flavour combinations can be hit or miss
• Food served: Mon-Thu 6-9.30pm; Fri/Sat 6-10.30pm
• Bar open: Mon-Sun 4pm-1am
• Open since: 1989
• Also offers: Vegetarian options (at least 25% of menu)

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops.

This review is from the 2007 edition.

With its candle-lit tables, sociable staff and low-key décor, Black Bo's has the welcoming feel of a bohemian bistro. On a menu that changes regularly to incorporate seasonal produce, there's always a new dish to try, and many of the inventive recipes are successful. Nori rolls filled with a moussey blend of smoked tofu and sun-dried tomatoes are a light, flavoursome starter, while artichoke sits well with apples, grapes and spicy almonds, albeit in an undressed, leaf-dominated salad. Likewise, the texture and taste of smoked pecans and mushrooms combine wonderfully in a plump burger. In some dishes, however, innovation goes too far and flavours battle against each other - sweet-potato soufflé and sharp goat's cheese balance with the sugariness of baked banana, but a creamy and pungent peppercorn sauce proves one element too many in an already ambitious mix of ingredients. Desserts, chalked up on a specials board, are more reliable: for an invigorating end to the meal, try the moist chocolate brownie infused with a delicious kick of chilli. Linger over a coffee or pop into the cosy next-door bar for a post-dinner drink.