Theo's Coffee and Play

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops. This review is taken from the 2007 edition.

Now in its second year, Theo's Coffee and Play has become firmly established as a sanctuary for West End families. A cuddly lion sits by the gargantuan windows, beckoning kids to come and have fun. Once inside the bright and airy space, parents collapse into comfy armchairs and sofas to read the newspapers while their charges dive down the slide or sprawl on the floor reading storybooks. Owner Elspeth Gibson knows how to provide wholesome food at reasonable prices after managing the Grassroots emporium for ten years. The menu reflects her style, with plenty of organic and vegetarian offerings, and children can take pleasure in half portions or immense platters of cheese, ham, hummus and fruit. A speciality is the 'beanini', inspired by Elspeth's son and café namesake, Theo. Happily for adults, there is a grown up plateful of this panini stuffed with baked beans and gooey melted cheese. The inspired idea of fairy-cakes for little ones to decorate with sprinkles and jelly shapes allows parents to sip smooth Bei and Nannini coffee and nibble on sticky gingerbread in peace. Late suppers have started on Thursdays and Fridays, with live music, and even the kids get a chance to sing along too.

• High point: A haven for kids
• Low point: Not for a first date