Mai Thai

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

The entrance to this stylish restaurant – which is housed in the Tun, close to the Scottish Parliament – is via a modernist bar with leather couches and stripped back décor then up a small flight of stairs. The dining area is small but lively with an edgy, minimalist feel, featuring spotlights and exposed pipes softened by occasional wood-carved wall reliefs and decorative columns. The food, like the atmosphere, is fun and funky, with some nice contemporary takes on Thai classics. Char-grilled scallops are served on a heap of avocado salad with hot chillies and oodles of lime and mango, while the popia sod ped come as fat stuffed rice paper rolls with seasoned shredded duck and mint. From the mains, geng panang yang is a marinated chicken breast coated with a silky cream and peanut sauce and a profusion of ginger, served on a bed of wok fried pak choi. It's a vigorous, playful creation that lifts the humble green curry into an altogether more stylish place. Preow waan are chunks of fluffy monkfish, deep-fried in batter and retaining enough notes of ginger and subtle spices to be recognisably Thai. A small but considered wine list including malts, cocktails, Thai and Chinese beers completes this smart and adventurous oufit's spirited approach.

• High point: Adventurous cooking
• Low point: Pool table in the bar creates a clashing vibe