Stavka

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

The 'party end' of Sauchiehall Street has long catered primarily for the weekend drinking crowd and, while food is still served in Stavka's multiple bars, since it opened in 2004 its focus has become gradually more centred on liquid refreshment. However, a discreet entrance at street level still gives evening access to the more opulent basement eating space of The Imperial Rooms from Thursday to Saturday. Plush red semi-circular booths stand out against dark wood and mirrors and are overlooked by Romanov eagles. The menu seeks to calm the beer hunger of Stavka's core customers with a range of home-made burgers and pasta dishes and a monthly changing set menu offer. There is an occasional nod towards the Russian name of the premises with dishes such as blinis, served with chicken and mushroom or, rather incongruously, chilli. Absolut chicken or Stavka steak are indicative of the simple grill options, which sit alongside standard pub offerings such as breaded haddock or beef lasagne. A good-value wine list is available for those not tempted by the free-flowing Baltika beer. A more selective version of the menu operates in other areas of this labyrinthine venue.

• High point: Decorative opulence
• Low point: Don't rush in for Russian

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