The Jam House

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Dusky purple lights cast romantic shadows on the walls of this funky, jazz-centric venue once occupied by BBC Scotland. Guests dine on the balcony above the main stage where soulful musicians entertain throughout the evening. A fixed-price set menu with mostly British flavours provides likable options for lovers of fine dining. A starter of oysters comes in three guises: au naturel, tempura, and delicately grilled with an anchovy, caper and basil crust. A potted confit of gressingham duck and foie gras arrives with dots of apple chutney, sweet mini gherkins and two sticks of toasted sourdough. For the mains, the corn-fed chicken stuffed with velvety marinated feta is paired with zesty, green-flecked herb risotto. The Aberdeen Angus beef fillet rests on top of a fat potato cake, with two jus-soaked shallots waiting at either end of the plate. For dessert, a couple can indulge in the 'taste of the Jam House' platter: a warm ginger sponge with pecan mascarpone, a mulled wine poached pear and a sharp lemon tart with crunchy caramel glazing. The wine list is expensive but alluring, and the service charming. Book early for a night of good music and equally good food, as the Jam House sells out regularly most weekends.

• High point: Live music creates a cheery atmosphere
• Low point: A black curtain clumsily separates dining room from lounge