JT Rochead

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2009 – in the shops now or buy online.

Taking its name from the architect responsible for some of Glasgow's finest Victorian edifices, you'll find this handsome dining area with its polished dark wood tables tucked away at the back of the lively Maggie May's bar. Frequent, high-volume live music and restrooms are shared; the menu is not. Indeed, there is no hint of pub grub in the refined list of meat and fish dishes which employs largely Scottish produce. Flavours tend towards the traditional, but justice is truly done to classic pairings. A tartlet starter finds melting cubes of Dunsyre blue cheese upon soft pear wedges in a delicate pastry cup. The teaming of a plump salmon slab with thyme-infused gnocci and a cherry tomato relish works equally well. An apple and raisin crumble is simply sweet rather than tangy, served with light vanilla custard not of the tinned yellow variety. The unprompted appearance of a round loaf of warm, home-baked, slice-it-yourself bread and a jug of iced water on arrival is indicative of the faultless service in this small, smart establishment.

• High point: Dark, intimate surroundings
• Low point: Next door's intimacy-shattering music