Tchai-Ovna House of Tea

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Set up 'to offer an alternative to the corporate and clinical bars and cafés found throughout the city', and said to be inspired by Czech tea houses, Tchai-Ovna offers both West Enders and Southsiders affordable vegetarian meals and more than 80 speciality teas and infusions. The Otago Lane branch's proximity to Glasgow University means it attracts a large student clientele. It overlooks the River Kelvin, with slightly rickety outdoor tables in the tea garden, and a bohemian interior full of everything from ethnic rugs to tribal masks and fruit-scented water pipes. Starters include dolmades (stuffed grape leaves), which are filled with plump rice and served with salad, or baba ghanoush – a satisfyingly chunky and subtly salty aubergine dip. A main course of lentil dhal is quietly fiery, complemented by snow-bud tea (a lighter take on green tea and served in a vast teapot). A warm, aromatic triangle of honeyed, flaky baklava is impeccable, as is a slice of chewy, dense chocolate brownie. Both branches host events including music nights, knitting and shiatsu, while the Shawlands branch (with wi-fi) has a more Arabic feel, selling hand-made Persian rugs.

• High point: Antidote to identikit style bars
• Low point: Erratic service