Òran Mór

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

The grand looking Òran Mór, a converted sandstone church overlooking Byres Road and the Botanic Gardens, attempts to cater for the varied wants of trendy West End locals by being all things to all punters: restaurant (see Scottish), club, theatre, bar – even wedding venue. It's certainly a venture with ambition, and it aims to deliver on the culinary front as a purveyor of the finest Scottish produce. The menu available in the modern, curtained-off annexe of the popular whisky bar is traditional in the main, with old favorites such as Cullen skink and steak pie featuring alongside the occasional pasta or seafood dish. While the dishes are simple, each plate is carefully presented. The haggis-stuffed chicken is generously portioned and artfully perched atop a bed of mashed potato and a piquant, creamy Arran mustard sauce – though the haggis itself lacks some pepperiness and texture. Desserts, such as a sticky toffee pudding with vanilla ice-cream and a warm, gooey butterscotch sauce, are pleasantly stodgy affairs. The service is friendly, if perhaps a little too relaxed, and while the menu may not surprise, the stained-glass surroundings provide a striking setting for a meal.

• High point: High standard of presentation
• Low point: With no background music, atmosphere can suffer on quiet days