Tchai-Ovna House of Tea

The 2012 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2012) edition.

With its stone floors, threadbare rugs, basket weave screens and Moorish lamps this eccentric little tavern could easily be tucked into the corner of a Marrakesh market rather than at the end of Otago Lane. A jumble of comfy old chairs and reclaimed tables are dotted around the room amidst the lingering perfume of the wealth of exotic teas on offer, creating a leisurely, almost soporific vibe. Eastern delights take precedence on the menu (prepared offsite in a Buddhist kitchen) with a large starter of dolmades being moist and juicy served with a piquant dressed salad. Mains include the monthly special, usually a stew or curry served with pitta or rice, or the sizeable home-made falafels served with hummus or baba ganoush. A richly seasoned Chipotle Chilli is thick and smoky with chunky roasted vegetables and laced with bright coconut. Outdoors, a generous deck built around a willow tree extends the exotic feel, maintaining a tranquil hang-out or meeting place for those of a contemplative or creative bent – or just needing a break from the ubiquitous presence of alcohol.

• High point: Quirky, replenishing and relaxing
• Low point: Leisurely vibe extends to the service