Arta

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• What are these?

• Average price 2 courses: £16
• House wine: £10.95 per bottle

• High point: Dazzling decor
• Low point: No plain bread or table water offered
• Food served: Wed/Thu 5-9.30pm; Fri-Sun 5-11pm. Closed Mon/Tue.
• Bar open: Wed/Thu 5pm-1am; Fri/Sat 5pm-3am; Sun 5-11pm. Closed Mon/Tue.
• Private dining: Up to 18 covers
• Open since: 2000
• Also offers: Pre-theatre menu

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops.

This review is from the 2007 edition.

A club, bar, restaurant and VIP lounge in one, Arta is a jewel in the crown of Stefan King's G1 empire. The vast, remodelled interior of the Merchant City's old cheesemarket recalls the set of some particularly lush Fellini epic - a phantasmagoria of crimson drapes, Moorish pillars and classical statues. With its Renaissance prints, sweeping Italianate staircases and Gothic candelabras, this grand, rambling castle of a venue is arguably in a class of its own. Yet the amiable, sharp and helpful service appears totally relaxed and on top of things. The Mediterranean menu offers Spanish and north African dishes (with tapas a speciality) alongside classic Italian standards. While a gremolata prawns starter disappoints - with over-cooked, rubbery seafood - a simple but delicate antipasti of cold meats in rocket salad is a good warm-up for a cacciatori (country-style) dish of chicken and roast potatoes in a suitably gamey, rustic mustard sauce. A spicy cassoulet of beans and Merguez sausages also rises above the ordinary - but its sauce is crying out for an accompaniment of simple bread that's missing from the menu.