North Star

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

North Star has a decidedly open-door policy, sometimes more literally so than you might like. But this small café/shop is a beacon in the hinterland between Byres Road and Maryhill, welcoming those who need sustenance from early morning until late afternoon. It has an honest neighbourhood feel, with posters and small notices advertising activities across North Kelvinside, and it even hosts a knitting class every fortnight. While some people grab a freshly made Lavazza coffee and a slab of home-made banana cake to go, those who wish to linger can unfold a wooden chair and receive their feast at one of the small, red, formica-topped tables. The menu is written in coloured pen on white wall tiles. One side of the counter is devoted to cakes and drinks, the other to savoury dishes. Typical offerings include Spanish tortilla with rosemary and peppers or salt cod stew. The goat's cheese bake has bubbling slabs of cheese in a terracotta pot of soda bread, topped with sweet cherry tomatoes, fresh basil and balsamic vinegar. Cakes – whether a crumbly pastry base filled with thick dark chocolate or a pear and almond pie – are universally tempting.

• High point: Chocolate tart from cocoa heaven
• Low point: Customers keep leaving door open