Bennet's Bar

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2009 – in the shops now or buy online.

As befits a public house of 170 years of age, the interior here is traditional – a smattering of old trophies and treasures collected over the years sit above the bar, while you can relax at the wrought-iron tables. If you aren't brave enough to sashay through the bar to the Green Room at Bennets, then it's worth noting that there is a separate entrance on Valleyfield Street for diners. The menu is home cooking through and through: hearty mains of fish and chips and macaroni cheese grace a limited but satisfying list, with a specials board suggesting other items you may like to try such as sausage casserole, or cheese, leek and potato pie. A tomato and basil soup to start is piping hot and served promptly, as are the mains. Creamy cheese sauce and flaky pastry grace the vegetarian pie, which can be served with chips or potatoes and vegetables. The side of vegetables does hark back a little to school dinners, but any such comparison is forgotten with the arrival of a delicious apple crumble smothered in custard. This is home cooking from home – and at a reasonable price.

• High point: Puddings like your grandma used to make
• Low point: Noise from the bar filters through