Café Cossachok

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• What are these?

• Average price 2 courses:
   £6.95 (set lunch)
   £12 (evening meal)
• House wine: £12.95 per bottle

• Hitlisted
• High point: Authentic 'home kitchen' Russian cuisine
• Low point: Desserts a bit heavy
• Food served: Tue-Thu 11.30am-late; Fri-Sun 4pm-late. Closed Mon
• Open since: 1998
• Also offers: Vegetarian options (at least 25% of menu), Childrens high chairs, Wheelchair access, Pre-theatre menu

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops.

This review is from the 2007 edition.

Forget frugality. Russia - that is 'all the Russias', from the Baltic to the Black Sea - arguably invented global cuisine long before it became fashionable, with culinary influences from fringe Asiatic regions to old Europe joining forces effectively. Café Cossachok, which is also an art gallery and music venue, amply reflects this diverse cuisine. The scene is evocatively set with walls decked in vibrant colours and a 'tapestry'-embroidered ceiling; but it may be the soundtrack of haunting gypsy violin music - which turns out to be the work of virtuoso co-owner Lev Atlas - that lends a very special ambience. The busy 'home kitchen' menu, with many daily specials, ranges from signature dishes, such as the famous Borscht beetroot soup (inevitably a house speciality), to the subtly spiced Georgian mince kebabs (complemented by a fiery tomato-based side sauce). Blintzes are pancakes stuffed with beef and turkey mince, onions and herbs in a spinach sauce, while a main course of succulent duck comes in a possibly too rich plum and apricot sauce. Deluxe Russian and Polish vodkas and beers lead a truly eclectic drinks selection, with Sovietskoye Champagneskoye, a snip at £23, the undoubted tsar. As we go to press, just as last, the café expects to vacate King Street for Albion Street while the former address is renovated.