Brel

The 2012 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2012) edition.

Brel's become a West End fixture not just for its European-influenced food and drink but for a certain relaxed continental vibe giving it a rare sophistication so close to the university. The back beer-garden fills up on sunny days and also offers a refuge from the often heaving Ashton Lane at night. The former stables and coach house is loosely divided into three: the small bar facing the street, with shoogly metal tables and dark wood; the back restaurant area, for more formal dining; and the glassy annex facing the garden. Belgian beers and mussels are specialities – the latter coming in generous pots with tangy flavours like cider, mustard and smoked bacon in their dribbly sauce. They also offer a selection of small, tapas-style plates, many unusual. On bigger plates, unsurprisingly their steak frites are good quality, with tender aged steak and loads of crispy little chips.

• High point: Relaxed, friendly service
• Low point: No quiet corners when there's music on