Brel

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

The interiors of this converted stable and coach house maintain their rustic charms, particularly with the original white glazed brick walls and heavy wooden doors. Many who come here for a bite enjoy eating in the small space with butcher paper-covered tables (at the far end from the bar). But for a slightly more formal, but still relaxed, experience go upstairs to a roomier dining area. At the time of going to press a new menu was just being launched with a broader range (sandwiches to full three-course meals) and encouraging signs of more ambition. Mussel pots remain intact, but there's Belgian waterzooi fish soup among starters, a 'boucherie' selection of meatier main courses, including schnitzel, and a few market specials, too, featuring fish dishes. That might include sea bass fillets with crispy skin and succulent meat, served on a risotto-style mound of sticky rice with flecks of sliced black olives surrounded with swirls of sweet balsamic vinegar in a paprika butter. Food of this order takes Brel into gastro-pub spheres. And it's priced accordingly. But there are plenty of inexpensive options, too. A small grilled platter of mussels (go for the herb and garlic butter) with bread – backed if necessary with a side order of frites – could be an excellent meal for less than a tenner. Service is informal and sincere, and diners are encouraged to pop open a bottle of wine or enjoy the regular live jazz at the weekend.

• High point: Leffe blonde on draught…
• Low point: …at £4.60 a pint!