Brel

Send us more details about this venue.

The 2011/12 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2011) edition.

Namesake Jacques Brel would definitely recognise this informal wood-filled bar as a distinctly European approach to dining and beer. The former stables at the end of Ashton Lane has the air of a Gallic tavern with its oak-lined walls, wooden floors and cosy nooks scattered around the quirky interior. Brel is always buzzing, especially in summer when the large back garden throngs with students and tourists bringing a further dash of continental café culture to the West End. The first floor bistro is long and thin with bespoke tables often laden with gigantic mussel pots that are Brel’s signature dish. These are served in a variety of broths and come with a wedge of garlic bread or chips and a recommended Belgian beer. Non-mollusc addicts can choose from a range of bistroesque dishes like a starter of pork pâté, which comes as a thick slice with fruity pear chutney adding some sweet notes to the rustic rough-textured meat. A gruyere and apple salad is light and unfussy with enough bright notes to keep it interesting. From the mains a Belgian beef cassoulet is a chunky stew served with a good dollop of mash.

• High point: Great mussels, ambience and service
• Low point: Could do with a bit more flair on mussel-free mains