The Drake

The 2012 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2012) edition.

While the basement bar is a cosy, casual hangout, the unusual restaurant upstairs is a surprise: two beautiful Victorian dining rooms which create an atmosphere more like an evening at Downton Abbey than a restaurant. With a fine view onto Woodlands Road and genteel décor, it's classy without being overly formal. The food is pretty posh too: weekly menus based on local and seasonal produce, which are carefully prepared and presented to highlight fresh flavours. A starter of king scallops, for instance, is pan-seared to just the right texture to bring out their tender sweetness, while a cured Orkney herring is smokey without being too strong. Mains tend to have interesting sides, like the black pudding mash, which accompanies an organic pork chop along with tart home-made apple sauce, while the peppercorn sauce for steak is not the usual bland, creamy gloop but a lovely rich sauce with whole peppercorns. Desserts are heavily indulgent. During the week it is available for private functions, but Fridays and Saturdays are open for general business, though advance booking is definitely recommended.

• High point: Elegant surroundings
• Low point: Limited opening times