The Royal Hotel

The 2012 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the 2011 edition.

Long a favourite of the hunting, fishing and shooting brigade this grand old dame deep in rural Perthshire enjoys a much wider appeal these days. David Milsom has enjoyed the role of chef patron since the Milsoms took over in 2001. Choose from the lighter Hotel Menu in the informal bar area or even dine outside in the walled garden on a warm day. The mighty Royal Burger and a variety of local beef steaks satisfy appetites built up hiking around or biking in the surrounding hills. The restaurant has that slightly twee feel that the tweed clad brigade seem so fond of, while the menu tightly nods towards Scotland with a twist with home cured gravlax before moving on to pan fried venison glazed with stilton or Scottish hake wrapped in proscuitto. Relax afterwards with over 100 single malt whiskies to choose from and a roaring fire to recline by in the cosy colder months. The roast beef, served up from a carving trolley, is the highlight of the equally cosy Sunday lunches.