Mansion House Bistro

The 2012 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the 2010 edition.

Reappropriated from its previous use as a private members’ club within the last twelve months, this grand old house in the heart of Edinburgh Zoo is being put to work as a somewhat finer dining establishment than the other cafes scattered around the park. It’s certainly a unique setting for lunch, with the high-ceilinged main dining room on the first floor bearing sky blue walls with beautiful corniced finishes and a fantastic view over West Edinburgh from the bay windows. Yet the place is currently stuck between two stools. Still a bit careworn from its previous incarnation, the restaurant’s current lunch menu features a two courses for £10 offer which wouldn’t seem out of place in a chain bar, including staples like homemade burger, battered haddock and chips and a triple-decker club sandwich. Yet the finer points of the menu demonstrate the ability of the chef and the apparent will to make this more than just the zoo’s fancy restaurant, including a starter of finely battered king prawns on skewers which are very pleasantly cooked just to the point of remaining succulent inside, and a flagship slow-roasted pork belly with soft mashed potato and star anise sauce.

• High point: A grand dining room in a unique setting.
• Low point: A bit awkward if you don’t fancy a visit to the zoo.