Elià

The 2012 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2012) edition.

Before being known for being nearly bankrupt, the Greeks were known as great philosophers. It makes sense then that the Grecian brain behind Elia has a good philosophy behind his food. You wouldn’t realise it at first glance of the menu – humus, olives, feta, moussaka and all the usual Greek fare – but his approach to food is that the bulk of what we eat should come from around us. The soil and seas around have everything we need to survive – and thrive – in the harsh Scottish conditions that we live in. As such, on the menu you will see fresh Scottish fish, local meat and local root vegetables, all cooked with healthy Greek olive oil. Flavours are simple, but delicious. So there are a lot of grilled meats with those luscious roasted root vegetables and potatoes, or meats cooked in rich sauces, such as the slow-cooked beef burgers, baked in a rich tomato, cumin and garlic sauce. While the clichéd Greek décor isn’t bad – but isn’t great either – the fantastic view across George Square certainly makes up for it.

• High point: Tasty healthy hearty food for serious eaters
• Low point: May be quiet on week nights