Brodie's

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The 2011/12 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the 2010 edition.

Situated in an innocuous spot towards the foot of West Regent Street, relative newcomer Brodie's immediately seems dowdy, between the mismatched furniture and unremarkable decor, and it can be very quiet on week nights. But scratch beneath the surface and you'll find a family-run bar bistro with a confident young team behind it that gets important things right. It's also among the only restaurants in Glasgow to do quality locally sourced, Scottish-centric fare at budget prices. The menu and wine list comes in the form of a hand-designed magazine, full of photos of patrons and their glowing testimonials – a fun and novel idea that captures some of the community spirit Brodie's is trying to invoke. The adventurous chefs come up with some unusual combinations such as a black pudding and caramelised banana stack starter. Stovies are a house speciality, although the 'signature' chicken and black pudding variant topped with dauphinoise potatoes proves an unappetisingly dark, coarse mush. Brodie's biggest triumphs are the desserts, which like everything else on the menu are made fresh, in house. Cheesecake laced with zingy mint is up there with the very best sweets in town.

• High point: Superb desserts
• Low point: Drab decor