Nick’s

The 2012 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the 2010 edition.

It’s love at first sight at Nick’s – what a stunning interior, all exposed brickwork, dark wood, slightly industrial, Brooklyn-loft kind of vibe. A newcomer to Hyndland Road, having opened in late 2009, it takes over the site of the unique hairdresser/gift shop/café diner that was Eden. A red neon sign displays its name and gives a hint of the cooking influences inside (North American as well as Italian), but the exterior is plain and could be missed by shoppers on the busier side. There’s much to be missed – a cosy ground floor for coffees and cocktails and a cleverly constructed mezzanine for the restaurant. West Coast mussels gatecrash the Italian starters, which include tortellini in brodo, gnocchi with pesto and pine nuts and a delicious-sounding salad of rocket, pancetta and aged prosciutto with figs and house dressing. Meat and fish dominate the mains, with beefburgers, char-grilled specials including a 9oz veal T-bone, main courses such as swordfish and monkfish saltimbocca and the inevitable pizza and pasta. Standouts here are the lobster tortelloni and a lonely veggie option of spinach, boiled egg and potato pizza.

• High point: The beautiful decor
• Low point: Lack of veggie options