The Partners Italian Bistro

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The 2011/12 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2011) edition.

Partnered – to coin a phrase – with Bearsden's Partners Bistro, Tapela and Tattie Macs, this restaurant sits in unpromising surroundings, just off Great Western Road next to Gartnavel Hospital – yet the striking former Kelvinside train station houses a surprising gem. Inside, wooden pillars break up the bright space, with dramatic red on the walls and giant cutlery motifs, stylish dark furniture and a pretty bar area. Cheap and cheerful lunch offerings include pizzas, pastas and baguettes, while leisurely diners can choose from the à la carte menu or the bargain pre-theatre deal from noon. Busy with weekend families, and couples for evening dinner, there's also a function suite upstairs for weddings and parties. The food is carefully presented: an enjoyably light goat’s cheese crostini is decorated with tiny beetroot cubes, drizzled with basil and accompanied by a rocket and sun-dried tomato salad. A tomato and parmesan risotto is a lurid swirl of colours, but its rich flavours and lovely texture make it taste as exciting as it looks. Stone-baked pizzas are thin and crispy and there's an extensive, excellent wine list. Worth the trip.

• High point: Exceptionally friendly service
• Low point: Off the beaten track