Ondine

The 2012 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2012) edition.

Ondine has quickly established itself as a respected fixture on the city-centre dining scene. Located next to the smart Missoni Hotel, the second-floor restaurant offers mesmerising views over George IV Bridge and Victoria Street, while diners can also perch at the horseshoe-shaped Crustacean Bar. The clean, stylish décor and discreetly attentive waiting staff contrast nicely with the relaxed vibe of the restaurant: contemporary jazz plays overhead and there’s a pleasant, unselfconscious buzz about the place. Display cases of shellfish introduce the main theme as you arrive. It’s difficult to see past the roast shellfish platter for two, a comprehensive selection of lobster, langoustines, clams and mussels simply prepared with garlic and herb butter. But there are plenty of versatile options elsewhere on the menu. A starter of brown crab arrives incredibly fresh, complemented by slivers of sweet walnut toast while the squid tempura comes with a Vietnamese sauce that packs a garlic and ginger punch. The main course of Cornish sea bass rests on a stack of boulangere potatoes and a rich shrimp and Beaujolais sauce, while the tender John Dory combines with clams and gnocchi to create a mix of fish and shells that is light and tasty (if ultimately a little too salty). Desserts are worth taking a punt on and include a lovely rustic treacle tart. Overall the fine food and attention to detail make it worth saving up a trip to Ondine for a special occasion – but, whatever time of year you choose to go, the informal atmosphere and reasonable prices won’t intimidate.

• High point: Excellent food in a surprisingly informal atmosphere
• Low point: With such a mouthwatering menu one visit is not enough