Samira

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With the legacy of his Bangladeshi family’s Brick Lane eateries behind him, Matabur Rahman opened his Rodney Street takeaway in 2008. December 2009 saw the addition of tables to accommodate 24 diners. The menu sports tandooris and curries to please the traditionalists, and plenty of choice to ensure vegetarians aren’t left out. Alternatively, speciality family recipes give the opportunity to try something different: recommended are the Kashmiri makani (a mild, creamy dish with lychees) and the spicy Persian Murgh Massallam (marked as ‘medium’ – hot dishes are solely for the brave). Not a smear of grease detracts from the fresh ingredients. Neither the minimalist décor nor the quiet, easy-listening playlist will provide a distraction from your feast, and though Rahman may take a while to warm up, he’s an experienced waiter and a friendly host. Alhough intimate by necessity, parties of up to 30 are welcome to book the whole restaurant. Both lunch and dinner offer exceptional value, with a BYOB policy only adding to this.

• High point: Stonking side orders, especially the Peshwari naan
• Low point: In such a small restaurant, it is not a good idea having a curtain instead of a loo door