Martin Wishart at Loch Lomond

Send us more details about this place.

The 2011/12 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2011) edition.

When the chance came for Edinburgh über chef Martin Wishart to return to the kitchens where he cut his culinary teeth at Cameron House, it proved too tempting to resist. With the reputation of his eponymous Michelin-starred Leith eatery to protect, Wishart has taken no chances here appointing excellent head chef Stewart Boyles and restaurant manager Steven Strachan, who he also worked with in Edinburgh. The result is as spectacular as the glitzy resort around it. Diners can swoop in by seaplane or helicopter and no one is disappointed. The carefully muted creams and browns instantly relax and focus the attention firmly on the cooking. You could dine à la carte, but the six-course tasting menu excels. Loch Fyne crab sparkles with white radish and Basque pepper while smoked organic Shetland salmon is lifted by Hebridean samphire and crowdie. Wines are available to match each course, the balanced pinot noir the perfect foil for the rich Perthshire girolle risotto. The truly decadent may want to enjoy one of Scotland’s finest cheeseboards, while for once vegetarians are on an equal footing with a multi-course vegetarian tasting menu.