Wing Sing Inn

The 2012 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2012) edition.

Wing Sing Inn is the kind of inconspicuous place you could pass a hundred times and never consider going into, which would be a real shame. Despite its plain décor, overly bright lights and lack of music, there’s an air of conviviality and adventure inside. Staff happily explain the unfamiliar northern Chinese dishes to the uninitiated (no prawn crackers here), and newcomers sit closely with groups of contented regulars. The menu covers a lot of ground, from a wonton soup with a deliciously fragrant broth containing half a dozen meaty parcels, to cold plates including shredded potato with fried chilli. Pork and seafood feature heavily, and there are a number of intriguing offal-centric choices for the adventurous. Stand-out dishes include a crispy fried salt and pepper squid whose interior really does melt in the mouth, and a single, rich scallop with noodles and just enough garlic. Wing Sing might not be conducive to a romantic evening, but it most certainly is a place for friends to meet, try myriad plates of food, and enjoy stepping out from run-of-the-mill Chinese dining experiences.

• High point: Swift service with everything freshly prepared
• Low point: Vegetarians should be very clear about their requirements to avoid confusion