Tailend Restaurant and Fish Bar

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2009 – in the shops now or buy online.

Given our nation’s penchant for the humble fish supper, it is surprising there are not more places in town where you can sit down and enjoy one, rather than taking away. Happily, at Tailend you can do both. Co-owned by chief frier Colin Cromar, one-time proprietor of the renowned Anstruther Fish Bar, this cheerful venture prepares superbly fresh fish and chips to order throughout the day from its central kitchen, which divides the building into its two distinct operations. Decked out with soft green panelling, monochrome photography and modern wooden chairs, the restaurant is a likeable update on the classic tearoom. The menu format may be simple, with several types of fish primed and ready to be dipped in batter, rolled in breadcrumbs, or simply grilled with a drizzle of olive oil, but the execution is exactly right. Haddock, cod, langoustine and lemon sole all make it on to the main list, but remember to take a peak at the specials board to see what else the day’s catch has brought in. Alongside come bowls of crisp, chunky chips and, if you wish, mushy peas and tangy tartare sauce – all home-made of course. Those looking to top and tail the main attraction can choose from the likes of scrumptious Arbroath smokie paté with toast, or assorted flavours from local ice-cream legends, Luca’s.

• High point: The format is simple, but Tailend gets it spot on
• Low point: Vegetarians may struggle – not even the chips are that way inclined