Banana Leaf

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2009 – in the shops now or buy online.

Easily mistaken for an ordinary take–away, the first hint that Banana Leaf is more than meets the eye is the largely Asian clientele. With its tiny interior, strip lighting, counters with high stools along either wall, it is only when you look at the menu that you realise that Banana Leaf is hiding its light under a bushel. The food is authentic South Indian cuisine, heavy on the vegetarian options and a world away from the curries familiar to Glasgow. Why settle for boring old pakora when you can sample idly and sambar (steamed rice cakes, wonderfully light and served with chutneys), or try the mild and fresh flavours of the deep fried chilli? The dosas are simply fantastic, 2ft-long lentil pancakes, filled with either lamb, chicken or vegetables, served on a tin tray with sides of coconut chutney, mild chilli sauce and a thin curry gravy, perfect for mopping up with the crisp, light pancake. Main courses are delicious and surprisingly cheap, such as kara kozhambu, which sees aubergines in a thick, warming sauce tinged with the smoky-sharpness of tamarind, all served with either sticky rice or chapattis. In terms of taste and budget, Banana Leaf is absolutely worth searching out.

• High point: Huge, fabulous dosas
• Low point: A couple more stools would be handy