Nutmeg

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The 2011/12 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the 2010 edition.

Tucked away off Duke Street and with just a handful of seats, Nutmeg would be the perfect place for a secret liaison if it were not for the steady stream of locals that pop in for a sandwich, a coffee, and a chat. Owned and run by a mother and daughter team, this tiny deli is cosy and simply decorated in a rustic, vaguely Italian fashion. There is no written menu, rather an ever-changing range of vaguely Italian dishes that is cooked from scratch daily. During the week the menu focuses on hearty lunches, ranging from breaded chicken ciabatta, little salmon quiches and various tartlets, to a creamy fish pie and a fresh, filling stew of beans, savoy cabbage and pancetta. At the weekend the focus is on specials, with anything from chicken or duck with baby potatoes, Italian sausage stews, and melanzane alla parmigiana. Home baking rules the cake stand also, from a classic bakewell to Portuguese custard tarts. While primarily a take-away, Nutmeg is a great place to drink coffee and hide from the world for a while.

• High point: Honest to goodness home cooking
• Low point: Just a couple of tables