The Torridon
- Food served: Mon–Sun 7–8.45pm.
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The 2011/12 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).
This review is taken from the current (2011) edition.
This country house hotel looks more like a castle as it stands guard over the brooding loch and mountains in this remote corner of Wester Ross. Head chef Jason ‘Bruno’ Birkbeck, a former Young Chef of the Year, recreates some of this drama on the plate by treating fine local ingredients to some French twists on his epic five-course dinner menus. The Torridon’s home-grown Jerusalem artichoke velouté and hand-dived Loch Ewe scallops, laced with cauliflower purée, a pickle reduction and wild rocket grab the attention. Then the roast saddle of Highland venison with braised red cabbage, rösti potato, beetroot and a juniper jus, more than satisfies as the main attraction. Cooking like this is certainly getting Birkbeck noticed, and has won the restaurant three AA rosettes for 2011. A great cheeseboard and some seriously good wines add to the luxury. A less grand option is on hand just a Torridian sandstone‘s throw away at The Torridon Inn where judicious use of local produce and solid cooking elevate things above pub grub.
Nestled in 58 acres of parkland on the shores of a sea loch, The Torridon occupies an unbeatably scenic location in the heart of the unspoilt west coast of Scotland. The hotel's beautiful dining room is a secluded and tranquil spot for fine dining, offering a sumptuous Scottish menu that makes the most of seasonal local produce. Sophisticated, well-executed dishes include butter-poached wood-smoked haddock with haricot beans casserole, or Highland roast suckling pig stuffed with fennel and garlic. There's a 200-bin wine list, and a well-stocked whisky bar featuring more than 320 different malts.
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